The Ideal Setup for Trout Fishing in Australia: A Complete Guide

Here are the top trout fishing rig setups for bait fishing, suited for Australian conditions but also effective anywhere. Each is chosen based on ease of use, presentation, and effectiveness with natural baits like worms, and maggots to artificial baits like PowerBait:

1. Running Sinker Rig (aka Sliding Sinker Rig)

Best for: Lakes, rivers, and still water Why it works: Allows trout to pick up bait without feeling resistance.

Setup:

• Thread a bean sinker or ball sinker onto the mainline.

• Add a small swivel to stop the sinker.

• Tie a 50–60cm fluorocarbon leader (2–4 lb) to the other end of the swivel.

• Finish with a size 8 to 12 bait holder hook.

Ideal baits: Worms, corn, PowerBait, cheese
Tip: Use a light sinker in lakes for a natural bait drift. Learn more about the running sinker rig and its variations here.

2. Suspended Float Rig or Bobber

Best for: Shallow streams, lakes near the bank, or over weed beds Why it works: Keeps bait just off the bottom or midwater—perfect for cruising trout.

Setup:

• Tie a small bubble float or quill float to the mainline.

• Add a split shot sinker 10–20 cm above hook to control depth.

• Use a light leader (2–4 lb fluorocarbon) and a small bait hook.

Ideal baits: Maggots, corn, worms, bread
Tip: Adjust float height depending on water depth or trout feeding zone.

3. PowerBait Dough Rig (Floating Bait Rig)

Best for: Stocked trout lakes Why it works: Keeps floating bait like PowerBait up off the bottom, right in the strike zone.

Setup:

• Use a sliding sinker rig (as above), but with a light hook (size 12–14) and a small ball of PowerBait.

• Leader should be 30–60 cm so the bait floats above weeds or bottom debris.

Ideal baits: Floating dough baits (e.g., PowerBait)
Tip: Pre-test your setup in a glass of water to ensure the bait floats.

 4. Drift Rig (Current-Friendly Setup)

Best for: Streams or fast-flowing rivers
Why it works: Drifts bait naturally along the current—mimics free-floating insects.

Setup:

• Tie on a small pencil sinker to the mainline or use a couple of split shots.

• Use a swivel and 30–50 cm fluorocarbon leader.

• Attach a size 10–14 hook.

Ideal baits: Worms, grubs, maggots
Tip: Cast upstream and let bait drift naturally downstream, keeping line tight. Read about drift fishing for trout in NZ here.

5. Dropper Loop Rig

Best for: Deep water, vertical fishing, or from boats
Why it works: Presents bait midwater and avoids snags near the bottom.

Setup:

• Create a dropper loop about 30–40 cm above a bottom sinker.

• Tie hook to the dropper loop (fluorocarbon line recommended).

• Leader from sinker to hook = 10–15 cm.

Ideal baits: Corn, cheese cubes, worms
Tip: Works well when trout are holding mid-depth.

1. Bait Fishing Tips (Worms, Corn, PowerBait)

Best Setup: Running sinker rig, float rig, or dough rig
Top Tips:

• Use light fluorocarbon leaders (2–4 lb) to make your rig less visible.

• Pre-test PowerBait in water to ensure it floats properly off the bottom.

• Match bait size to natural forage—smaller is often better, especially for wary trout.

• Adjust float depth often to find the strike zone, especially in lakes.

• Use scent or bait attractants in stillwater to increase your chances.

2. Lure Fishing Tips (Spinners, Spoons, Soft Plastics)

Best Setup: Light spinning rod and reel with 4–6 lb fluorocarbon
Top Tips:

• Use natural colours in clear water and bright/flashy colours in murky conditions.

• Vary your retrieve speed—pauses, twitches, and erratic action often trigger strikes.

• Cast upstream in rivers and retrieve with the flow for a natural presentation.

• Downsize your lures if trout are following but not striking.

• Fish early or late when trout are most active, especially in summer.

3. Fly Fishing Tips (Dry Flies, Nymphs, Streamers)

Best Setup: 3–5 wt fly rod depending on size of trout and water
Top Tips:

• Observe insect activity to match the hatch with your fly choice.

• Use drag-free drifts when fishing nymphs or dries—mending your line is key.

• Cast upstream and let your fly drift down naturally in creeks and streams.

• Try a hopper-dropper setup (dry fly + weighted nymph) for dual chances.

• Be stealthy—trout often sit in surprisingly shallow water.

4. Trolling Tips (For Lakes & Dams)

Best Setup: Light-medium rod, downriggers or weighted lures
Top Tips:

• Troll early morning when trout cruise the surface; deeper midday.

• Use tassie devils, wobblers or minnow-style lures at varying depths.

• Change speed and direction occasionally to trigger strikes.

• Fish near drop-offs, submerged timber, or creek mouths.

Bonus Tip

Always check water temperature — trout feed actively in cooler waters (ideally 10–18°C). During hotter days, target deeper areas or fish early.

1. Streams & Creeks (Shallow, Clear Water)

🎣 Best Rig:

• Drift rig with unweighted or lightly weighted worms/maggots

• Small split-shot rig with a short fluorocarbon leader and size 10–14 hook

🎣 Best Lures:

• Inline spinners (e.g., Panther Martin, Mepps Aglia)

• Micro soft plastics (grubs, minnows) on 1/32–1/16 oz jigheads

• Floating minnows (50–70 mm) with natural colour patterns

Why it works: Mimics insects and small prey drifting in current; ultra-light setups keep the presentation subtle.

2. Rivers (Deeper Pools, Faster Water)

🎣 Best Rig:

• Running sinker rig for bait like worms, corn, or grubs

• Use a small ball sinker and 40–60 cm fluorocarbon leader

🎣 Best Lures:

• Medium-sized spoons (e.g., Super Vibrax, Celta)

• Hardbody diving minnows (Rapala Countdown, 70–90 mm)

• Crankbaits or paddle-tail soft plastics for deeper pools

Why it works: Heavier rigs or lures stay in the strike zone despite current; bait and lures imitate natural prey being swept downstream.

3. Lakes & Dams (Stillwater, Deeper Zones)

🎣 Best Rig:

• PowerBait floating rig: running sinker, light leader (30–60 cm), size 12 hook

• Suspended float rig: great for shallow weed beds or drop-offs

🎣 Best Lures:

• Tassie Devils (great for long casts and trolling)

• Spoons and metal blades (e.g., Thomas Buoyant, Gillies)

• Soft plastic grubs or minnows on 1/16–1/8 oz jigheads

Why it works: Trout cruise weed edges and drop-offs—these rigs present bait at eye level, while lures cover water quickly.

4. Boat-Based (Trolling or Deep Water Casting)

🎣 Best Rig:

• Downrigger or trolling sinker rig to suspend lures at 2–10 m depth

• Use a long fluorocarbon leader (1–2 m) behind the weight

🎣 Best Lures:

• Trolling lures like Rapala CD, Tassie Devil, or StumpJumper

• Weighted spoons for deeper trolling

• Jointed hardbodies for erratic action

Why it works: Trolling covers vast areas and depths, ideal for tracking moving trout schools in large reservoirs or alpine lakes.

5. Alpine Lakes (e.g., Snowy Mountains)

🎣 Best Rig:

• Suspended bait rigs or long-range PowerBait setups

• Drift rigs from the bank with worms or corn in early season

🎣 Best Lures:

• Slim-profile spoons (e.g., Gillies Baitfish, Thomas Buoyant Spoon, Halco Twisty)

• Hardbody stickbaits with subtle colour tones

• Vibes or blades for deep, clear conditions

Why it works: Cold, clear water makes trout wary—subtle lures and neutral buoyancy baits shine here.

Common Mistakes with Tackle Setups

1. Using Line That’s Too Heavy

• Why it’s a problem: Trout have excellent vision and are line-shy, especially in clear water.

• Fix: Use 2–6 lb fluorocarbon or light monofilament. Heavier lines reduce bites.

2. Oversized Rods and Reels

• Why it’s a problem: Heavy gear can’t detect subtle bites and is overkill for most trout.

• Fix: Stick to ultralight or light spinning setups with a 1000–2500 size reel.

3. Choosing the Wrong Hook Size

• Why it’s a problem: Too large a hook spooks fish or prevents proper bait presentation.

• Fix: Use size 10–14 hooks for worms, corn, PowerBait, or maggots.

4. Wrong Lure Size or Colour

• Why it’s a problem: Large, aggressive lures in the wrong water conditions won’t tempt trout.

• Fix: Match the hatch — use small lures (40–70 mm) in natural colours for clear water; brighter ones in murky water.

Common Mistakes with Rig Setups

1. Too Much Weight on the Rig

• Why it’s a problem: Excess weight causes unnatural bait movement and snags.

• Fix: Use just enough weight to get the bait down — especially in lakes or drift setups. Lighter is better.

2. Leader Too Short or Too Visible

• Why it’s a problem: Short leaders place the bait too close to the sinker; thick leaders are easily seen.

• Fix: Use a 30–60 cm fluorocarbon leader, ideally 2–4 lb, especially with floating baits like PowerBait.

3. Not Adjusting Float Depth

• Why it’s a problem: If your bait is too shallow or too deep, it’ll miss the strike zone.

• Fix: In float rigs, always adjust the stopper to set the bait depth just above weed beds or midwater zones.

4. Wrong Rig for the Water Type

• Why it’s a problem: Some rigs tangle or don’t present well in current or structure.

• Fix:

  • Streams/rivers: Use drift rigs or small split-shot setups

  • Stillwater: Use running sinker or suspended float rigs

  • Deep water/trolling: Use dropper loop or trolling rigs